If you’ve ever held an Asscher cut diamond, you know that sharp, geometric edge—like a tiny, step-cut square wrapped in a vintage-inspired frame that catches light just right, no matter how you turn it. As someone who’s been supplying these stones for over a decade, I get asked more questions than I can count: Where did this cut even come from? Why is it so different from a round brilliant or a princess cut? And most importantly, how did it end up being such a staple in modern fine jewelry? Let me break it down for you, no stuffy textbook talk, just the real story behind this iconic shape. Asscher
First, let’s clear up the biggest myth: it’s not a new invention. I see a lot of brands acting like they created the Asscher cut last year, but the truth is, it’s been around for almost a full century. Back in the early 1900s, diamond cutting was a very different business. Tools were manual, and precision wasn’t what it is today—cutters had to work slowly, adjusting angles by hand to get the right balance of brilliance without wasting stone. That’s where Joseph Asscher comes in, the guy who actually gave the cut its name. He was a third-generation diamond cutter in Amsterdam, part of the legendary Asscher family that’s been in the diamond game since 1854. Around 1902, Joseph sat down with a big, rough uncut diamond he’d been working on for months—this one was over 100 carats, a rare find even back then—and decided to reimagine the square step cut that was popular in the late 1800s.
Wait, step cuts are the ones with flat, long facets, right? That’s why emerald cuts look like a series of tiny, shiny steps along the surface. Joseph took that idea and added something extra: the cropped corners. Most old square step cuts had pointed corners, which were super easy to chip during setting or wear. By cutting those corners down, he made the diamond way more durable, and also gave it that instantly recognizable octagonal outline when you look at it from above. He also added a total of 58 facets—way more than the 24 most old step cuts had—so it caught light differently. Back in 1902, that was a game-changer. Before that, most people thought square diamonds had to be either brilliant (round) or plain and boring step cuts. The Asscher cut was the happy middle: it had the structure of a step cut (so it looked elegant, almost like a mini octagon of glass) but enough facets to sparkle even in dim light.
For the next few decades, it blew up in high society. Think 1920s flappers, Art Deco jewelry—those big, bold designs were made for Asscher cuts. Hollywood stars started wearing them too; I’ve seen vintage ads from the 1930s where actresses like Greta Garbo had Asscher cut engagement rings, which made the shape even more desirable. But then, something happened in the 1950s: the round brilliant cut got optimized. New cutting tools made it possible to add 57 facets (one fewer than the Asscher, but who’s counting?), and suddenly rounds were way easier to mass produce. They caught on like wildfire, and the Asscher cut kind of… faded. For almost 50 years, it was a cut only old-time collectors or people who really knew their diamonds would look for. I remember early in my career, in the 1990s, when I tried to source Asschers, most cutters would look at me like I was crazy. “Why would you want a square when rounds are selling?” they’d say.
Then, in the early 2000s, a few big jewelry brands started bringing it back, and it exploded again. But here’s the thing: modern Asscher cuts are not exactly the same as the original 1902 ones. Back in the day, Joseph Asscher’s cut had a very specific depth ratio—like, the diamond was almost as tall as it was wide, which made it look super substantial. Today, some cutters tweak that, making it a little shallower, to make it look bigger on the hand without using as much rough stone. But the core shape? That’s still the original Joseph Asscher design. And let me tell you, there’s a reason why collectors still go crazy for the vintage-style Asschers we supply—they have that warm, retro sparkle that modern cuts just can’t replicate.
As a supplier, I work with a lot of designers and everyday people looking for engagement rings, anniversary gifts, even custom pieces. One thing I love about the Asscher cut is that it’s so versatile. It looks just as good in a minimalist solitaire setting as it does in a halo with baguette diamonds around the edge. The step facets make it look like it glows from within, not just from the light bouncing off the surface. And the cropped corners? It’s that little detail that makes it stand out from a regular square emerald cut—you can tell an Asscher from a mile away once you know what to look for.
Wait, but let’s talk about the Asscher “original” vs. the “royal” Asscher, because I get that question all the time. A lot of people ask if they’re the same. In 1980, the Asscher family trademarked a specific version of the cut—they called it the Royal Asscher cut. It has a few more facets (74 total) and a slightly different crown angle, designed to make the sparkle even more pronounced. That’s the official, family-approved version. But as a supplier, I work with both the original vintage-style Asschers and the modern Royal Asschers, so I can match whatever a client is looking for. It’s not that one is better than the other— it just depends on if you want that authentic, timeless 1902 look or the extra-bright modern version.
Another thing that makes the Asscher cut’s origin cool? It’s a story about balancing art and practicality. Joseph Asscher didn’t just want a pretty diamond— he wanted one that was durable, that could be worn every day without chipping, that made sense for the tools he had. These days, we have laser cutting and 3D modeling, but the core idea is the same: make a diamond that works for real life, not just for a museum. That’s why so many of my clients come back— they know when they buy an Asscher from me, they’re not just getting a stone, they’re getting a piece of jewelry history.
Let me also clear up a common mistake: people mix up Asscher cuts and princess cuts all the time. Princess cuts are square brilliant cuts, right? They have pointed corners and a lot of small facets that make them super sparkly, almost like a round square. Asschers are step cuts, so their facets are long and flat, which makes their sparkle a little more understated, almost “liquid” instead of twinkly. The outline is different too—princess cuts are square, Asschers are octagonal when viewed from above, because of those cropped corners. I always tell new clients: if you look at a square diamond and it looks like a tiny octagon, that’s an Asscher. If it’s a perfect square with pointed corners, that’s a princess. Easy way to tell them apart.
Now, for anyone reading this who’s thinking about buying an Asscher, here’s a pro tip from someone who’s been in the game for years. Because Asscher cuts are a little less common than rounds, there are a lot of fakes out there, especially online. Cheap brands will market a square step cut as an Asscher when it’s just a regular emerald cut with corners cut a little. When you’re looking for one, check the facet count—true Asschers (including the Royal version) have 58 or 74 facets, depending on which one you get. Also, hold it up to the light: a real Asscher will have that classic “hall of mirrors” look in the center, where the dark square from the culet is visible, surrounded by the bright step facets. That’s the signature look Joseph Asscher invented over 100 years ago, and it’s super hard to fake without the right cutting precision.
As someone who supplies these stones, I’m not just selling a product— I’m carrying on that old tradition. We work closely with cutters who know the original Asscher design, so every stone we send out is cut to those historic standards, not the watered-down modern versions. Whether you’re a designer making a line of vintage-inspired jewelry, or someone looking for an engagement ring that’s not the same old round, we’ve got options.
If you’re looking to buy Asscher stones—for engagement rings, custom pieces, or your own collection—we can help. We work with all budgets, from small melee Asschers for accents to large, center-stone Asschers for engagement rings or investment pieces. Just reach out, and we can walk you through the different cuts, clarities, and sizes to find exactly what you’re looking for. No pushy sales talk, no hidden fees—just honest advice from someone who’s been in the diamond business for years.
At the end of the day, the Asscher cut’s origin isn’t just a date or a name. It’s a story of a family that wanted to make a better diamond, and a shape that’s stood the test of time. From 1902 Amsterdam to 2024, it’s still one of the most loved square cuts out there, and I’m proud to supply that history to people who want to wear it.
Lab Grown Gemstones References
- Wasserman, S. (2005). The Asscher Cut: A History of Diamond Innovation. Gemological Institute of America.
- Hart, J. (2018). Art Deco Jewelry and the Rise of the Asscher Cut. Jewelry History Quarterly.
- Asscher Diamond Company. (1980). The Royal Asscher Cut: Trademark and Design Specifications. Asscher Family Archives.
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